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I Race on the PRO Level at the NPWDRL. Any pro car will cost over $150 making this car a steal of a deal!!!!There are two main reasons on why one would purchase a professionally built derby car. First: Not enough time, Second: You want a WINNER! . Every scout car I have made has placed first, second, or third place at scout, district, and council levels.SAVE YOUR TIME AND MONEY. COME GET A WINNING CAR.Car Details: Check your rules first!This is a Rail Riding Car.This is an Standard Wheelbase Car. It does not currently have precut axle slots, but I can cut them in if needed.Body: light weight aerodynamic wedge-shaped body. Sanded up to 600 grit and painted with white primer and lightly sanded again with 600 grit so it's ready for painting s o you can paint the car any color you wish.Weight: Is just under 5 oz for painting. Lead Filled center of gravity or COM is around 3/4 in inch in-front of rear axle. Making it ideal for any track.Wheels and Axles are straight from the tube you get at any scout or hobby shop.Wheels: The wheels have NOT been weight reduced in anyway. I prepped the wheel with derbydad4hire wheel polishes and graphite.Axles: The axles have been sanded up to 4000k grit sand paper then polished with derbydad4hire polishes. Axle holes were drilled with derbydad4hire silver bullet Pro drill gig for perfect alignment.The car does not come with wheels attached, but it is fully race ready. 3 of the 4 you simply push into place the 4th I include simple instructions to follow.Straight or Bent Axles: For a typical Rail Runner found on Pro Level cars, ONE Bent Axle is used for the Dominant Front Wheel, and straight axles are found on the rears. Some builders have opted to try and run on bent rear axles, and while you can attempt this, it will be a miracle if you can keep up with the speed of a properly aligned and drilled rear axle car. read more
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